Where Sydney-siders park their chopsticks

When the Chinese first settled in Australia during the Victorian Gold Rush of the 1850s and, later, in Sydney, they could not have anticipated the appetite the locals would develop for dim sum, or yum cha as it is known in the Antipodes.

But there’s only one rule for eating yum cha in Australia: arrive after 11am and be damned.

On weekend mornings, families queue in the stairwells of restaurants in Sydney’s Chinatown, and elsewhere across the city, to savour freshly steamed barbecue pork buns, fried squid legs or even half a salt-and-pepper crab.

Those with more adventurous tastes may venture into offal territory – black bean chicken feet and beef tendon, as well as sweet bean curd dessert.

Unlike more conventional dining experiences, the opportunity to try new things is great – a poor choice will likely impact more on your pride than your wallet.

Whether you like yours by the trolley or a la carte, there is a yum cha restaurant to suit most tastes in Sydney. There are also several good suburban options, including the various branches of Kam Fook (Bondi Junction and Chatswood). Here are five of the best:

China Grand
Perched atop the Market City shopping centre, this grand space with its chandeliers has undergone many reincarnations, but remains one of Sydney’s most consistent yum cha houses. A speciality of the house is Peking duck, a Catonese staple that is rarely available by the piece – a treat for couples not wishing to overindulge. At $5 a pop it’s an expensive morsel, but well worth it. Har gow, traditional prawn dumplings, are plump and juicy, while the vegetarian variety will have even the staunchest carnivores seduced by shitake.

Address: Level 3, Market City, 9 Hay St, Haymarket. 02 9211 8388

Marigold
The German beer hall of the Sydney yum cha scene, Marigold packs in up to 800 punters across two levels. Its sheer size means it lacks the attention to service of some other places, but is ideally suited for a business lunch. At the cheaper end of the city restaurants, Marigold offers mainly standard fare, with juicy deep-fried eggplant and tofu a standout dish. They also offer a “Dim Sum Degustation” on Sunday to Thursday nights for $25 a head.

Address: Levels 4 & 5, 683-689 George Street. (02) 9281 3388.
Website: www.regal.com.au

East Ocean
When the steamer baskets at a yum cha restaurant have the silver rims, you already expect more. Luckily East Ocean delivers, both in service and fare. A convoy of trolleys is never far away with a dizzying array of dumplings – the crystal dumplings with spinach and prawn are particularly popular and the custard tarts are the best we’ve tried. Those happy to splash out can indulge in crab, prawns or various duck delicacies from the barbecue counter, but be warned, these dishes come at a premium price.

Address: 421 – 429 Sussex St, Haymarket. 02 9212 4198
Website: www.eastocean.com.au

Regal
Slightly north of Chinatown’s epicentre on Sussex Street, Regal is often overlooked in favour of dumpling dens right in the thick of it. But it shouldn’t be. The har gow, the gold standard for yum cha dishes, are thin-skinned and juicy, while plates piled high with squid tentacles are too tempting to pass by.  Bigger groups may combine their yum cha with a specimen from the fish tank – various breeds of crab as well as lobster and abalone are available. The same company owns both Marigold and Regal, but the latter is a class above.

Address: 347-353 Sussex St (cnr Liverpool St), Sydney. (02) 9261 8988
Website: www.regal.com.au

Da Niang Dumpling
Not strictly yum cha, but a good option for solo diners or those who want their dumpling fix on the go, or to go for that matter. Touted in some forums as the McDonald’s of Dixon Street, the dumplings at Dai Nang won’t make you sing, but in terms of value for money it’s hard to compare. A plate of 12 steaming prawn and ginger dumplings might be a bit doughy, but the filling is delicate and is yours for just $8.50, cheaper if you opt for pork or beef. Add some side dishes including wakame salad ($4) and a galaxy of flavour combinations are possible.

Address: Shop 42-42A, Dixon St, Haymarket. (02) 9211 0378